There are
four main areas to heating a Chameleon enclosure. Basking area, background
heating, a thermal
gradient and night -time drop.
Basking
Spot
The basking
spot should closely match the temperature of the Chameleons natural
habitat in direct sunlight (somewhere between mid and late afternoon)
and should be brighter than the surrounding areas. This is where the
primary UV exposure should occur. This can be achieved with either
a PowerSun (Mercury
Vapour) Reptile UV bulb if the size of the enclosure permits
or a combination of a UVB
Reptile Fluorescent bulb and a normal household spot bulb
or halogen bulb.
Background
temperature
The background
temperature should closely match the temperature in the shade. This
area should still allow UVB exposure but must be cooler than the basking
spot.
Thermal
Gradient
A Thermal
Gradient is where the temperature varies in the enclosure
from the maximum (under the basking spot) to the minimum (furthest
away from the basking spot). With chameleons this gradient should
be vertical. There should be a noticeable difference between the maximum
and minimum temperatures. This allows the Chameleon to decide the
temperature it prefers/needs at any given time. No chameleon spends
all day in the shade or all day in the sun.
Night
time drop
As would
be experienced in their natural habitat, a drop in temperature at
night is important for many species of Chameleon to allow them a proper
period of rest. It is important to understand the climate where the
chameleon comes from to ensure the correct minimum temperature.
For example Panther Chameleons don't thrive with night-time drops
much below the low 60°F's. Temperatures below that can be fatal
in weak individuals. This is because they come from a less variable
climate than for example, the Veiled Chameleon which can (although
it is absolutely not recommended) survive night-time temperatures
approaching freezing*.
* Sorry to state the obvious
but please do not try and test the freezing statement. 50°F is
a better minimum for Veiled chameleons in captivity.
In fact
night-time and maximum temperatures can be an important factor in
deciding the species of Chameleon to be kept. Its harder to cool an
enclosure than to heat one. If you come from a cool area then it might
be more advisable to consider one of the species classed as Montain
(or mountain living). These are higher altitude species
that are used to lower more variable daytime temperatures and often
require a significant night-time drop. Species commonly available
in the hobby are Dwarf or Mount Meru Jackson's Chameleon, High Casqued
Chameleon and Fischers Chameleon.
People who come from warmer areas should consider avoiding some of
the Montain species. Mount Meru Jacksons Chameleon for example, will
suffer from heat stress in captive conditions when the temperature
hits the 80°'s. They also need a noticeable night-time drop. If
your summers can reach 90°F or higher then these animals can suffer
and may die without additional cooling or air conditioning. The more
tropical species can be easier to keep as they tolerate well the high
temps and additional night -time heating if required is a simple matter
of using a heat mat, or a radiator depending on the enclosure.
Heating
and Humidity
With very
few exceptions, all chameleons come from humid climates. The high
temperatures often quoted in books and on weather sites can only be
tolerated if the humidity is also sufficiently high.
For example
Panther Chameleons can handle periods where the temperature goes into
the 90°F's with little sign of stress PROVIDING the humidity
is high (80% or over). In the recent summers we have had the temperatures
have hit the 90°F's regularly. When these sorts of temperatures
are likely, increased humidity and the addition of a water
dripper is a must.
Ideally
a misting system should be installed which will provide an area where
the Chameleon can cool off as well as drink ad lib. If the cage will
allow it, runing the mister all day is the better option. Clearly
there has to be sufficient drainage and a large enough area where
the chameleon can leave the mist and bask without getting wet.
When in
their natural habitat the chameleon would be able to retreat to cooler
more humid areas if need be. In captivity we must be very careful
to provide a sufficient range of conditions to allow the chameleon
to still do this. The picture below shows the range and temperatures
in a garden.
As you
can see there is a huge range of temperatures in a very small area
so just because the weather channel says its 80°F does not mean
the chameleon will be exposed to or indeed desire that exact temperature.
back
to top
